One year on the Road

Just a few pictures from every month over the last year …

Not the ‘best bits’, because all too often there’s not a photo record of them. Just clusters of pictures to give a flavour of our wonderful adventure since leaving London twelve months ago.

We’re hoping the pictures say it all. If you haven’t been following the blog, this should sum it up.

And of course, dear family and friends (the old and the new!), please get in touch with all your news.

We’re having fun but we miss you all.๐Ÿ’š

November/December

20161125_035439-836x1115

20161130_122306-2002x15001

20161205_085337-1700x22661-1020x1360

20161206_161048-1559x11681

December/January

20161223_084429-1728x2307

20161222_044620-1500x2001

pb202356-2764x2073

gopr1522

January/February

pb293046-972x12961

20170107_071746-1800x2402

pc083513-768x1024-691x921

20170110_054423-768x1024

pc113790-1015x13531-812x1082

pc123983-1015x7611

pc194772-959x1278-767x1022

February/March

dsc03413-1382x1842-829x1105

P1280062-1843x1382

p1280128-2304x1728-1958x1469

20170306_092723-723x965

P1276891-2304x1728

P1276943-1728x2304

 

March/April

p2057199-1192x894

20170307_012314-1072x1429

img_20170315_133544-1382x777

20170215_075425-1382x1843-912x1216

p1145922-1382x1843-967x1290

20170215_062437-2048x1536

April/May

p2247787-1843x1382-1382x1036

20170406_091346-2304x1726

p3088242-864x1152

20170602_140534-1152x15361-921x1228

20170429_011716-1342x1789

20170428_030045-1531x1147-1224x917

 

May/June

20170518_062144-879x1173

20170529_093611-1200x1601

 

20170523_135721-851x1077

20170610_035348-1083x1443

20170615_081356-1005x1348-753x1010

June/July

20170723_072639-664x11811-630x1121

20170712_054607-1228x1637-1031x1374

dsc03580-1296x9721-1166x875

p7231857-864x11521

p7282314-1382x1037

July/August

p8102804-1036x13811

20170814_051325-691x921

August/September

20170911_194343-2037x648

20170904_201347-576x1024

20170925_214340-768x1024

 

October/November

pa100229-921x691

20171011_174052-764x1018

pa110627-864x1152

pa130807-864x1152

20171014_111540-857x1143

20171022_144652-614x819

20171105_171723-1152x15361

20171105_165439-1228x1637

20171116_070549-1599x1198

20171116_065113-1941x1455

pa302039-921x6912

20171125_145558-1718x967

The last shot was from 6.00 am this morning. The classic Angkor Wat at dawn. More from Cambodia in our next post.

‘Follow’ to keep in touch.

 

More tales from Sulawesi

We flew from north to south for the second part of our journey through Sulawesi – from Manado to Makassar. Travelers had told us that the journey to the Togian Islands in central Sulawesi was easier from the south, and we also wanted to visit the mountainous region of Tana Toraja, with its unique traditional way of life.

Edwin, our guide from Minahasa (seeย Sulawesi Penjelajahan) recommended a Torajan guide, Gibson, who we met in Rantapau. His local knowledge gave us a fascinating insight into Torajan culture as we spent two days touring the area.

Tana Toraja

20171101_100835-1579x888

The Toraja inhabit the vast, rugged landscape of the South Sulawesi highlands. Although nominally Christian Protestant (imposed by Dutch colonial rule and evidenced by the numerous churches and cathedrals), the Toraja have an ancient animist faith that continues to determine much of their daily lives. Gibson recalled a local priest explaining to an anthropologist that his congregation were Protestant for one hour every Sunday, but animist for the rest of the week. They have an ancient caste system, centred around the extended family, their traditional home and complex rituals about death.

PA291847-794x1059
A Tongkonan – traditional family house

Although modern Torajans may have left the area and made money, for example in the Indonesian oil and gold mining industries, their position in society is not measured in modern wealth but where their family is in the ancient hierarchy. Torajans (loosely translated as mountain people) believe in a mythical land to the south, to where the dead must travel and much of their elaborate ceremonies centre around this transition.

Family homes, tongkonan, are built collectively in a traditional style, using interlocking, elaborately carved wood, with no nails, always pointing north to south. The roof is made of overlapping bamboo, styled to represent the bow and stern of a boat.

They are built on stilts and have similarly crafted rice stores around them. The rice stores are a sign of wealth and have a raised door and round pillars to keep the rice safe from rodents.

20171029_164847-686x1220
Rice Store – a bamboo ladder is used for access

PA291886-656x875

In tropical conditions, the bamboo roofs are soon bursting with life and need to be replaced every six or seven years.

PA291757-691x921

Internally, the room allocation also represents life’s journey – the young sleep in the northerly-most sections, the elderly nearest to their final destination, in the south.

PA291753-898x1197
Interior with interlocking timber. Below our Torajian guide Gibson.
20171101_092303-1052x592
Toraja is surrounded by mountains and rice terraces are everywhere

PA291710-725x967

PA291844-921x691

Death in Toraja

We were introduced to the Toraja view of death with visits to a series of cliff faces and caves where upper-class Toraja dead are entombed. The graves are guarded by tau tau (life-sized wooden effigies) carved in their image. These eerie, striking cliff cemeteries and caves are scattered throughout the region.

PA291683-691x921

Bodies are put into graves once they have decomposed, meaning many generations will share the same space. The coffins (shaped like a traditional house) are carried to the cliff face or cave, and left to rot. Torajians have been outraged and offended to discover some of the ancient tau tau have been stolen and sold in the international art market.

PA291693-967x725

PA291795-967x725

PA291787-1013x760
Anne and Gibson in one of the cave graves
20171101_094252-1351x760
Many bodies, once decomposed, share the same coffin. As the wood rots, skeleton parts fall to the ground below

 

Burial tree

The most poignant burial site we visited was a tree where babies were buried. Situated close to a Torajan village, only those children from the village who had died before growing teeth were buried. They had to be buried within an hour of death. They were placed in the tree in the foetal position, and once sealed the parents walked away without looking back. The sap from the tree was believed to nourish the child until it was ready to make the rest of it’s journey. It was a sad and peaceful place in the forest.

PA291760-622x829
Each patch marks where a baby has been buried to be nurtured for its onward journey

Thankfully most of these graves are decades old and our guide explained that UNICEF now provide a free healthcare programme for new mothers and babies in the region. Infant mortality has dropped accordingly.

Sacred buffalo

One constant factor in our tour through the region was the importance given to buffalos, both as a sacred animal and a signifier of status. We saw them washed and pampered everywhere and found ourselves discussing the key discerning features of the most prized animals.

20171101_112905-1091x818
The fairest of them all. Blue eyes, pink and black skin, only the wealthiest Torajan can afford this buffalo.

PA291868-1105x829

Unlike elsewhere in Asia, they are not worked; rather they wallow in mud and have their needs catered to daily – until the moment when they are brutally sacrificed, usually in a funeral ceremony.

As shown earlier, houses are decorated with buffalo horns to demonstrate traditional status and wealth. When we visited the market in Rantapau we were told that the most prized animals were sold for up to US$4,000.

Death’s Journey

The importance of death to the Torajan way of life is shown most clearly in extensive funeral celebrations, taking place over days, and normally years after the person has died, with the body remaining in the family home throughout. The funeral itself is a celebration involving hundreds and is more of a going away party than a sad occasion.

When a Torajan dies the deceased is not buried but is embalmed and stored in a traditional house under the same roof with his or her family.ย  Until the funeral ceremonies are completed (often years later, depending on the family being able to raise the money for this most important celebration), the person is not considered to be truly dead but merely ‘a person who is sick’ or ‘asleep’.ย  During this time, the deceased family member is symbolically fed, clothed, cared for and taken out, and is still part of the family until arrangements are in place to send her/him on their final journey to the land of souls.

The funeral we attended was particularly lavish and involved two deaths, a man and a woman.

PA302072-1071x1428
The eldest daughter of the deceased with his tau tau

Both were of the status to have tau tau, which means over 200 buffalos would be slaughtered on the final day and the meat distributed within the community. Pigs and buffalo are also slaughtered daily, to feed the large numbers attending.

PA302166-1013x760

PA302145-1152x864
With our guide we were welcomed to the celebrations
PA302039-921x691
Traditional dancing and singing

20171101_111951-1337x1708

20171101_074733-898x1197

Temporary accommodation needs to be built to house and feed the visitors, and the family members dress in elaborate traditional costumes.

PA302122-1036x1381

PA302111-933x1244

PA302130-1209x1612

Everyone is involved, it demonstrates the importance of family and community to Torajans.

PA302152-1209x1612

The funeral procession involves carrying the coffin back and forth, with much laughter and good humor.

20171101_110425-788x1050

20171101_110603-863x1150

PA302131-783x587

The Togian Islands

20171116_065808-1380x1034

Situated only 40 km from the equator, in the Tomini Gulf, central Sulawesi, the Togian Islands are difficult to reach.

We hired a car for two days to make the journey from Rantepau – Tentena – Ampana (not a cheap option) in order to then catch the speedboat to Wakai. With an overnight stop there, we could catch the public ferry early the next day to the volcanic Pulau Una Una. We had met a couple in our lodging in Rantepau, Willi and Katja, who were heading in a similar direction, but they decided to take the public bus in order to save some money and maybe get to the Togians quicker.

The first leg of our journey, the 300km from Rantepau to Tentena took 11 hours to drive – two mountain ranges and a long section of the highway/roadworks reduced to a sea of mud in a tropical downpour, with a truck stuck at one stage, blocking the road.

PB012213-829x622.JPG
The highway can be slow at times – truck in mud

After a night’s sleep in the Victory Hotel, Tentena, we got up early the next day to find Willi and Katja sitting in the breakfast area – they had just arrived! Their bus had broken down and the journey had lasted 20 hours. They decided to travel the next stage in the car with us and we got on well, sharing information and stories from our collective traveling adventures.

PB032236-1382x1037
Public ferry from Wakai to Una Una

So, getting to the Togians is an adventure in itself, but there is a real sense of peace and isolation when you arrive, you really have ‘got away from it all’.

We spent our time in Sanctum Una Una, a dive resort with great diving just a short boat ride away. Our cabin looked out over the tranquil sea and the sounds we heard were rolling surf, the humming of cicadas and the burp of geckos.

PB042274-921x691

20171111_145614-822x1096
What a place to spend your birthday! Anne, living the dream …
PB042251-1152x864
Driftwood Manta

PB032244-1382x1037

With such a wonderful location, the other key ingredient is the people, and they were fabulous. Joni and Indah were so friendly and kind – we won’t forget the birthday cake for Anne, Indah๐Ÿ˜ ๐ŸŽ‚๐Ÿ˜. The dive guides, Dorian, Allie and Emiline shared their enthusiasm every day and even though Anne couldn’t dive she saw bump heads, schools ofย  barracuda, turtles and beautiful coral while snorkeling.

PB042282-1751x1313
Not a sunset, moon rise on the equator

20171116_065113-1941x1455

20171116_070549-1599x1198
We even met Will and Katja again – this is them surfacing after a dive at the end of our jetty

Happy days!

20171116_064104-1186x890
Manta Man Dorian – he found a Manta, the first seen in Una Una – on my rest day ๐Ÿ˜ข

Great staff, great guests and great crew. Thanks guys.๐Ÿ‘

20171116_064759-1963x3490

Moving on

From the Togians we took a complex route back to Bali and checked in to our regular Denpasar lodging -for the fifth time this year I think! 20171117_064157_crop_748x489We’ve stored our dive gear with Made and Widuri in Jepun Segara and are touring Cambodia for a month or so. In reality we don’t intend to rush around too much, so it may be a country we will have to return to.

Follow the blog to find out!